Jiamusi 2010 Olympic Games?

Last Wednesday, Jiamusi Number One High School held its annual “sports meeting”.  When I first attended the High School, I had assumed that very few extraordinary athletes existed in Jiamusi.  Although some of my classmates were somewhat fast or strong, in the US they wouldn’t have been considered athletes whatsoever.  I was positive I was among the fastest and strongest in my class of sixty six students. 

I soon learned that my high school’s basketball team had been ranked first in China for about eight of the past ten years, and I began to see people running around the track at incredible speeds.  I was shocked.  I began to wonder if all of my classmates were this way, despite their lack of time to work out (due to their tremendous academic schedule).  To my great relief, I discovered that both the athletes on the basketball team and those running around the track were “sports students”.  In other words, they are often exempt from academic class to improve their athletic prowess. 

On Tuesday, the day before the meet, I was told to arrive at school at 5 am.  I did not know what to expect, although I assumed that it would include some track and field games.  I pictured some people watching casually on the side of the track as the athletes carelessly went about their preordained events.  Reluctantly, I arrived right on time in the uniform I was asked to wear (which simply consisted of a pink long sleeve T-shirt and a pair of black sweatpants).  I was, along with about ten other students in my class, sent over to the basketball courts.  I was amazed by the activity of the event.  All six thousand students of Jiamusi Number One High School were in attendance, and tents and had been set up in a horseshoe shape around the track.  I was among the first of the 6000 to march, but among the last to leave.  I stood in the hot sun for two hours, at attention, watching class after class march by and listening to speaker after speaker spit out what to me were inaudible phrases with slight hints of familiar words. 

Finally, it was time to relax.  I met up with the other exchange students, and we spent hours taking ridiculous pictures, messing around (which led to the breaking of both of my shoelaces) and eating enormous amounts of food.  Towards the end of the day, the teachers were given a chance to race.  I was amazed by some of their speed!  Teachers in China tend to be younger than their American counterparts, but I was still shocked by their athleticism.

The exchange students decided that we would like to have our own race.  To my surprise, the faculty allowed for the event to take place.  We had secretly decided in advance to play a bit of a joke on our audience.  As the gun went off, we would spin around and run as quickly as we possibly could backwards, in an effort to convince our Chinese classmates that that is how races are run in the west!

The pressure was on as I was representing both the United States of America and Salisbury School! 

I am proud to report that I took home the gold!  I cannot help but feel this is a prelude for Salisbury athletics in the coming year.  The victory does not bode well for the rivals of Salisbury School, particularly a certain panda that will attempt to surmount the hilltop next week (panda, in Chinese, is xiong mao -  xiong means bear and mao means cat).

 After having upwards of six thousand people witness the unbridled glory of the United States of America, I ate some more bread and headed home.

Wo Keyi Pao Bu Ma?

One of my most frequently used sentences; “Wo Keyi Pao Bu Ma?” translates to “Can I go for a run?” Seemingly the second I left my native soil, running ceased to be the tiring and time consuming activity necessary only to keep in shape. It, in an instant, became an outlet to the frustrations of my everyday life in a completely foreign culture. John Adams was known to say, a good five or ten mile walk “roused the animal spirits” and “dispersed melancholy”. Figuring that running rather than walking could only increase the effect, just days into my journey, I grabbed my dictionary and did my best to gain permission to run.

While my host family understood my request, they did not understand why I was requesting it. Running is not a common activity like it is in the states. Those that do run, only run short distances at a slow pace. Additionally, my host family seemed skeptical of my ability to take care of myself and find my way back home. The language barrier made it very hard to explain. Perhaps they thought I was going to run away!

Then, one of the first nights I was there, we went to my host brother's grandfather's house, and I learned that my host mother and aunt planned on running back to the apartment and I was invited to join them. I am not sure that you could even classify their pace as a fast walk! A few seconds in, I picked up my speed and started a slow jog. They quickly stopped me and explained that Chinese people do not run that way. The next day, they made another effort to help me satiate my desire to run. My host father said that I could run – if he was watching me – so he stood outside and watched me run short laps.

I am pleased to tell you that we have made a lot of progress since those first days and now, when I say those five words, I find myself gaining some much needed independence, going out into the city on my own, listening to some of my favorite music and getting the workout I desperately need after what can only be described as a day of calories, calories and more calories.

I have begun to relish those 80 minutes at night, as I never thought I possibly could. I run mostly at night due to the fact that I return from school at around five, and have an early dinner at about six. I then return my emails, do my homework and prepare for the following school day. At about seven thirty, it is time to run! At this point, I put on my running shorts and my socks, and almost as an afterthought ask either my host mother or my host brother those five imperative words, which, in my opinion, are crucial to any exchange student. Without fail, they always respond “keyi” and I head out the door to embark on my favorite time of the day.

I often go for my newfound “long run”, as I have grown to call it, as it is not only a great workout but also a fantastically interesting show of the development of Jiamusi and China itself. Without running, I only would have seen Jiamusi on the surface- an industrial city with very little western influence. On my “long run”, however, I am able to see signs of China’s recent economic rise and have been able to further explore this strange City that I can only describe as one of the coldest, most closed off cities you will ever find, filled with some of the warmest, most open people you will ever meet.

I embark on my run at the river park, where search lights point up at the sky, music plays, large groups of people dance in unison, tremendous kites are flown with colorful lights attached to their frames (as to reveal their position in the dark sky), while children play and adults converse. Perhaps the greatest skeptical of all is the artificial geyser that shoots water hundreds of feet into the air, decorated by different colored lights at the base of the contraption. As I move along, the “party” calms down and is replaced by vendors selling cheap goods or adults who’ve had one drink too many, singing as if they were in the Beijing Opera. Further still, the beauty fades and some greater poverty is evident. While this is saddening, it is just as encouraging that, as I move along, I also see signs of enterprise, of construction and expansion that may bring a greater wealth to the city of just under a million people. Beyond this, signs of the real days of communism remain. Although no communist propaganda is posted on the buildings, and no party meetings are taking place, you can see a trashier and more impoverished Jiamusi than the one I have grown accustomed to. Next to the end of the path, there is a giant dumpster, filled with different scraps and trash. This is also one of the most polluted areas of the city. In fact, at this point I feel as though I am running through a thin layer of smog (although the degree varies drastically from night to night).

Once I had my “long run” down, I assumed that it was the end of my journey into the complexities of Jiamusi. It was not until my fourth or fifth time on this route, that I decided to be slightly more adventurous and climb up the dirt hill at the end of the river path. I was expecting to get a better view of the train that was fast approaching. Instead, I found something far more remarkable. I saw a large statue, that, as I made my way to the front, revealed itself to be a memorial of some kind, most likely to some explorers of the area. Four warmly dressed Chinese people, both male and female, were huddled behind another Chinaman who, unlike the others, had a radically braver demeanor than his fellow explorers (or at least it appeared that they were his fellow explorers). He was standing up straight, with his arms spread, as if to say he is ready to face anything that the Siberian tundra could throw at him. I turned around and saw a massive set of stairs, that, at least in the dark, to be quite nice (being the expert surveyor of stairs I am). Getting a picture of these locations has proved difficult, but I assure you, I will do all that is in my power to get photographic evidence of my discovery on the blog as soon as possible.

Running has not only helped me burn off frustrations and calories, have some alone time, and listen to some of my favorite music, but it has also helped me greater understand the complexities of this monolithic country of the Far East. I feel that I am only on the tip of the iceberg, and I will keep everyone at home up to date on my deeper investigations.

Before signing off, I’d like to take a moment to thank everyone for taking the time to read my blog. I sincerely hope you enjoy reading it as much as I enjoy writing it! It helps me feel connected to all of you back home. Although I cannot respond to your comments due to blocking, my Mother has sent them to me, and I thank each one of you for your very encouraging and warm-hearted comments. I hope you enjoy my further entries - New pictures will be posted as soon as possible!
Thanks again,
PK Isacs (Zhang Jian Long)

Some Pictures

Stereotypes

The term "politically correct" means different things to different people.  To a politician, it may mark the fine line between being elected or not being elected.  Politicians definitely need to be politically correct.  For a comedian, it may be the easiest and fastest route to a laugh.  Comedians definitely like to be politically incorrect.  For your average American, they are a couple of words that frequently get in the way of a good time, but at the same time, frequently help to keep us in line. 

The comedian often will often use stereotypes, or oversimplified standardizations of a group, in a very politically incorrect manner.  Their targets include pretty much any race imaginable, both genders, those in between, and all religions.   In one of my less politically correct entries, I will confirm and deny some typical Chinese Stereotypes.

1.    Slanted Eyes

Many Americans believe that a common characteristic among Chinese is slanted eyes.  Interestingly enough, however, in my section of China, slanted eyes are very uncommon. 

2.    Short Stature

Many people believe that a characteristic of Chinese is being somewhat short in stature (with the exception of Yao Ming).  This rumor holds some truth.  The average height in China is much shorter than in America.  5’6” is average for a male in China, compared to 5’10” in the US.   In the North of China, however, the people can be quite tall.  My host brother, as you will see in pictures, is actually taller than I am.  Southern Chinese people tend to be the shorter Chinese that we typically stereotype.

My Host Brother

3.    The World Hates Americans

This stereotype has less to do with China on its own but more to do with a worldwide stereotype.  This is not true whatsoever from my experience so far in China.  As I have mentioned in previous posts, people go crazy when they see an American!  When I met the mayor of Jiamusi last Saturday, he looked at me slightly differently, as many others do.  It seems to me that there is a respect resonating in that glance.  Not only do they respect us because of our wealth and power, but because we obtained it through democracy, through freedom and through the right to equal opportunity.  The foreignness of this idea only makes it more impressive to the Chinese.

4.     The Chinese are Good at Ping Pong

My 9-year old opponent and her ping pong coach

True.  So unbelievably true!   My host brother had a ping pong practice (yes practice, like football or soccer or lacrosse) last Sunday, and I tagged along.  Those of you who have played me in ping pong know that I feel pretty confident in my abilities.  I can hold my own against most people I have played in the States.  However, here my first opponent was just too good for me.  She (yes, she) was too quick, too powerful, too skilled and too well practiced in the art of ping pong for me to keep up with.  The really deflating part of this is that she was only nine years old!  We had quite a battle, and although the scoreboard showed an even score, we both knew who was the king (or queen) of the table-and it was unquestionably she.

5.    Bathrooms & diapers

I was asked by a few of you about “going on the street” – I am afraid it is true.  And the toilets at school are pretty gross –they are squat toilets, and there is no toilet paper.

...And as for the diaper question, Mrs. (Marnie) Owens – you got it, they are just introducing diapers here! Traditionally babies wear an outfit with a slit in the back, and are taught to squat at a very early age…  I know, right?

When to When?

7-6. Seven in the morning to six at night.  The school day for a typical student at the Jiamusi number one middle school lasts eleven hours, from seven a.m. to six p.m.   After one day spent at home, bonding with my host father, I left for my first day of school at about six thirty in the morning. 

First, I should clarify a few things.  In China, Middle School is equivalent to US high school.  The ages of the students range from 14 to 18.  In China, the middle schools are all ranked. The smartest kids go to the number one school and the second smartest to the number two school and so on.  And in China, school is taken very seriously. 

Upon arrival at the school I was escorted to my class.  As I entered the classroom, all sixty-five students gave a tremendous applause! (How is that for making me feel welcome?) 

My School

Two students sit at each desk, and I found my place in the back of the room (thank God) where I was assigned a “desk mate” who I later found out is considered to be the class athlete.  Throughout the day he tried to teach me a few words as I mindlessly stared at the gibberish on the blackboard.  You can’t imagine how slow time passes when you can’t understand anything being said!  Finally, lunch came along, and I had the opportunity to catch up with the other exchange students in the “canteen”, the school’s questionable cafeteria (even by American school’s criteria!).  After only an hour, it was back to the books. 

It is amazing how you are treated when you are from the west.  People stare at you, try to take pictures with you, say hello to you and try to have a conversation with you.  Girls giggle when you walk by and guys try to ask you about American athletics.  Also striking – but not surprising is the great deal of respect they have for the United States. 

What is surprising is that they seem to fear American boys.  After being told repeatedly by many different teachers and AFS volunteers that relationships between boys and girls are not allowed in Chinese schools, I asked my Finnish friend if he thought the warnings were a little extreme.  He said that although he heard about the rule from previous studying, it had not been mentioned to him by any AFS volunteers or teachers.  Mystified by this, I asked my German and Italian friends, and heard the same thing.  My final conclusion is that they stereotype American boys as sex obsessed and good at wooing girls!

I am concerned that the next day I was viewed as being a little flirty with two girls in my class, and as a result all 65 students were yelled at.  Either that or they were yelled at for talking.  Or the teacher was just being really loud.  Who knows?! 

My Chinese has been improving though, as has my relationship with my host family.  On my birthday, after a long day at school, my host father picked me up and brought me to an unknown building (well, most of them are unknown to me at this point).  I assumed it was just a typical errand and followed him upstairs.  We entered a private dining room where I found my host mother, aunt and brother. They told me that the other AFS students would be there soon and that we would celebrate my 17^th birthday!  While in America I am considered to be 16, in China they celebrate the first birthday when you are born – so here, I just turned 17.

After a delicious, multi-course meal, each one of the host families (although I had barely met them) gave me a birthday present.  My host brother and father gave me a tiger piggy bank (as it is the year of the tiger).  My host aunt gave me a pencil holder, and my host mother gave me a tiger glass.  I also received another pencil holder made of a special kind of nut, which is only available in Jiamusi, and an ornate pottery bull, detailed with different kinds of luck.  My German friend was kind enough to give me a gift that I can describe only as a holographic time telling laser pointer of sorts.  My Finnish friend gave me a much needed bar of chocolate (chocolate is not very common in China). 

It’s great to be seventeen!  My only regret is that I skipped my sixteenth birthday…

A Match for New York?

Before departing for China, I went to Los Angeles hoping that I would find another New York.  Those of you, who have been to Los Angeles, can understand my disappointment when I found an extremely large suburb.  I am not saying that I didn’t like LA.  On the contrary, I loved it – so much so that I am considering becoming bicoastal!  When I arrived in Beijing, I finally found what I had been looking for -  a competitor for New York.  Another Super City - sky scrapers, pollution and a real hustle.  Beijing is massive in both land mass and population.  I had heard that the pollution was bad, but I found it absurd.  In fact, when we departed from the airport it seemed as though a fog had descended onto the whole of the city (I was reminded of Bolvine in the Thirteenth Warrior, preparing to fight off the eaters of the dead!). 

We drove to an apartment on the outskirts of the city, which was surprisingly nice, but quite different from a New York apartment.  I was lucky enough to not have a roommate due to a computing error of some kind.  Although we were suffering from severe jetlag, we were not given the opportunity to rest.  Instead, we went through yet another AFS orientation. (I am feeling very oriented!)  We were told that the next day, weather permitting, we would visit the Great Wall.  Unfortunately, the weather did not permit, and we visited a sports center and a massive art complex (which was quite impressive).

 

I was very excited and relieved to hear that three other AFS students were assigned to Jiamusi: a girl from Italy, a boy from Finland and another boy from Germany.  Early the next morning we boarded the train for the next leg of our trip – 24 hours to Jiamusi!  Fortunately I was so exhausted that I slept for about 18 hours, the rest of the trip, we got to know each other and passed the time playing cards.  You can imagine our anticipation to meet our families as the hours passed.

My new home town:  Jiamusi

When we arrived, we were surprised to be greeted by quite a crowd!  Each of our host families and our teachers came to meet us.  We quickly sorted out who belonged to whom and the four AFS students went our separate ways with our new families.  My host father, my host mother, my host aunt, and my host brother (who is a couple of months younger than I), all went out to lunch for a fantastic traditional Chinese meal.  Fortunately, my host brother speaks a little English or, we really would have been lost.  The four of us then returned to their apartment complex, which is at a fantastic spot overlooking the river, and I was shown the ropes around the building.  After a few misunderstandings, including one in which my host brother wanted to take a shower with me, (it’s a long story) I went to bed for a night of much needed sleep.

The Slow Boat to China

Before the Wright brothers invented the airplane and until engineers enabled it to travel thousands of miles, the only two major routes to China were Marco Polo’s Silk Road, a long series of land and waterways through Eurasia, or a slightly shorter water route around the Cape of Good Hope and past India.  The European merchants, of course, preferred the all water route.  Although this was shorter than Marco Polo’s Silk Road, it was still one of the longest possible journeys a westerner could make.  Even though the advancement of airplanes has dramatically shortened the duration of a trip to China, flying coach for 16 hours is no picnic.

 

After being dropped off by my parents, I sat through an AFS orientation with my mind on the next six months of my life.  I then talked with some other AFS students, going to China, Japan, Indonesia and Australia, got a wonderful two hours of sleep and left for the airport at three in the morning.  We arrived at about four, went through all of the fun security measures typical of any modern airport and waited two more hours before we left for San Francisco.  Upon our arrival, we looked for as many ways as we could to waste time before the flight (which was about four hours away).  We ate at a Japanese restaurant and walked around the airport looking for some trivial way to pass the time.  After what seemed like forever, we boarded the flight (I had a window seat the entire way, including the flight from LAX to SFX).  The first few hours passed quickly enough, I watched Iron Man 2 on the TV as others dozed off into deep sleeps.

  

About eight hours into the flight it became unbearable.  With some of my new found friends from the AFS program, I headed to the back of the plane with my deck of cards in hand (a brilliant suggestion from my mother).  We played BS and Go Fish for the next few hours, talking about the little we knew about our host families and what we hoped to gain from the Far East experience.  (Just in case anybody is wondering, luck was on my side as I won every single game I participated in - quite a feat considering the fact that we played for hours!)

The next few hours were even worse.  We disbanded and headed to our respective seats, waiting for the longest day of our lives to finally end.  The plane landed eventually, but the day was not yet over, as our journey was just beginning.

AFS volunteers at Beijing airport met us.  The Airport was quite a sight! It was bustling with what seemed like millions of people.  It was only four o’clock in the afternoon in Beijing, and we were pumping adrenalin over-time to take in everything we could of this new and very different culture.  Little did I know at the time that I would be soon facing a 24-hour train ride to my final destination – more on that in the next post. I also hope to be posting pictures as well.

I have been challenged by the fact that the blog has been blocked (a strong reminder that this is not America!).  I am researching the possibility of a Chinese blog.  In the meantime, I will email my parents and they will cut and paste my posts and pictures into the Blog.  

Thanks for following!